Chapter VII
FRAGMENTATION
THE factors of a diet upon which it is now believed life
depends will perhaps one day be as many as the notes of a piano. At present there
may be said to be thirty.
There are, firstly, the proteins or meaty substances of the
food. They have been found to consist of chemical substances called amino-acids.
There are eighteen amino-acids known to chemistry. Some of them are necessary to
life. Lysin and cystine are necessary; tryptophane is almost certainly so; arginine
and histidine, one or the other, but not necessarily both, are so. That gives four
factors necessary to life.
Then there are fats and certain lipins they contain. They
occur in all foods except sugar and some fruits. To what degree they are essential
to life it has not been finally determined, so one factor for fats is sufficient.
The same may be said of starches and sugars, or carbohydrates,
to give them their group name. Carbohydrates are the immediate fuel of energy, and
fats the stored fuel. Energy is an essential quality of life. Carbohydrates can,
then, count as one factor.
These food substances are composed of chemical elements.
Of the elements known to exist in the body, some, possibly all, are necessary to
life. They are carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, oxygen, potassium, sodium, iron, copper,
manganese, zinc, magnesium, lithium, phosphorus, sulphur, chlorine, iodine, barium,
silicon. They add eighteen factors and raise the total number to twenty-four.
These elements are not only combined to form proteins, fats,
carbohydrates, but they also form the mineral salts of the body, the chlorides, phosphates,
carbonates, sulphates and so on, of sodium, potassium, calcium, iron, and so on.
We will not add anything for the mineral salts, but allow them to be grouped under
the eighteen elements.
Another set of substances necessary to life are the vitamins.
Vitamins A, B1, B2, C, D are necessary to life. There are other vitamins, buds, as
it were, from B called B3, B4, B5, B6, also E and somewhat nebulous vitamins up to
K. It is safe to say that five vitamins are essential to life.
Lastly, there is water, which brings the total number of
dietary factors necessary to life to thirty.
These necessities have been found out by giving animals diets
in which one of the factors was missing. If the animals did not die, the factor was
not necessary to their lives. It might be necessary to their health; they might live
feebly without it. They might get a particular disease without it. This led to a
further mass of research on these particular factors of disease. Then there have
been experiments to find out which of two or more factors of like type was the best.
Thus a great deal has been learnt about a factor or group of factors as separate
things.
Let us take, for example, the proteins or meaty foods. The
first protein to be isolated and separated as a thing or substance in itself was
gelatin. Gelatin, therefore, became the object of a great deal of nutritional research.
Firstly dogs were tested out on gelatin, as the only protein
of an otherwise complete diet, by Voit, over fifty years ago. But gelatin failed
to fill the full protein reeds, and the dogs got thinner day by day. There was something
lacking in gelatin as a full necessary protein food.
Proteins build up and replace the tissues of the body and
supply the necessary element, nitrogen. Gelatin failed to do this on its own. It
could do it in part, but there was a gap in its completeness.
When it was found that proteins were made up of amino-acids,
this gap proved very useful to the research workers. By putting a particular amino-acid
into the gap its efficiency could be tested.
Kessels, in 1905, tried the first of these experiments. Dogs,
Voit found, starve if given gelatin as their only source of nitrogen. Kessels gave
dogs gelatin plus such amino-acids as tyrosine, cystine, and tryptophane. The dogs
lived. He then fed himself in the same way, and found he could carry on quite well.
So the gap in gelatin was successfully filled.
By experiments like this the amino-acids were eventually
ranged in order of value. Some failed to fill the gap, and the weight of the dogs
continued to be lost. Some succeeded, and prevented the loss. With growing animals,
some succeeded better than others in filling the gap, as shown by the normal increase
of weight. In this way an order of merit of the amino-acids was created.
From the separate amino-acids it was easy to pass to the
separate proteins. There are so many of them in the vegetable and animal worlds and
they vary so much according to how many amino-acids they contain and how they are
arranged that work on this subject could be endless. Berg, for example, in 1903,
calculated that the number of possible proteins, based on the amino-acids, was 6,708,373,705,728,100.
So research workers were driven to test out the best known ones.
There is a chart in McCollum and Simmonds' book which is
quite exciting in its effect. It is like the start of a horse race. Nice thick black
lines, indicating the weights of experimented rats, leap forwards from the base line
into the air together. The rat that leaped highest was not quite a fair starter,
being given two proteins, those of rye and flax-seed meal, whereas the remaining
rats were only given one protein-containing food in a made-up diet. The next starter,
not much behind the rye and flax-seed candidate in his leap was milk-fed. Then came
wheat, rye, maize, flax-seed alone, barley, oats, and Kaffir corn-fed rats.
By experiments of this kind the proteins can be arranged
in order of worth; in the same way as McCarrison arranged the whole diets
as prepared and eaten by the Sikhs, Pathans, Mahrattas, Goorkhas, Kanarese, Bengalis
and Madrassis. By the former experiments you find out which are the best, or probably
best, proteins for a diet which you are putting together under expert advice; or
which, as an expert, you will advise for others. It settles for you one factor of
diet, the proteins.
There are the many other known factors to be considered,
as well as the need to keep a watch on new discoveries. The vitamins, for example,
first appeared some forty years ago, when Eijkman of Batavia published the results
of his investigations on the paralysis of fowls fed on polished rice. They have led
to a great increase of knowledge. They are by no means the end. There are "countless
substances in food," Sir Gowland Hopkins wrote in 1906. There must needs be
other important unknown factors yet to be discovered.
Meanwhile, experts can tell us what happens to animals and
humans who do not get sufficient vitamin A. The most dramatic is dry eyes, leading
to blindness, but if fresh vitamin is quickly given there is a miraculous recovery.
Or there are the troubles which do not clear up miraculously, but yet are due in
part to defective vitamin A. Such are colds, bronchitis, pneumonia, and weakness
of the bowels. So one has to keep a watch on one's supply of vitamin A.
Vitamin B effects miracles no less wonderful. There is nothing
more dramatic in nutritional research than a common experiment which was often carried
out in a laboratory where I worked. A pigeon deprived of the needed vitamin B by
being kept on polished rice is lying on the floor of its cage, unable to rise. It
may be contorted in a remarkable manner, bent right backwards, like one of the living
croquet hoops in Alice in Wonderland, or forwards as if doubled up between two invisible
hands. It may suddenly be released from these spasms only to be thrown into violent
convulsions. It is near to death and will in fact soon die if left.
But if one takes a glass tube, puts into it the pulp of some
sprouting pulse or grain, prises open the pigeon's beak, and blows the pulp down
its throat, the miracle happens. In a very short time the pigeon is its usual self,
on its perch and preening its ruffled feathers.
No experiment can persuade the onlooker more convincingly
of the power of a vitamin than can this one. That is because it is dramatic. But
these are many forms of ill-health due to poor supply of B which are not at all obvious.
Then there is vitamin C. Animals and men deprived of vitamin
C get into the most deplorable condition with foul, bleeding mouths, bleeding elsewhere
and eventual death--the terrible disease of scurvy. This is an easy disease to prevent.
It is very rare to see it now, but minor degrees of the scurvy condition, with its
weakness, headaches, poor appetites, affected gums--they are common. Moreover, vitamin
C is not like the other vitamins. They are, like common salt and other substances,
not notably altered by ordinary heat or storage. But vitamin C is. It is volatile
and unstable in character. It is, therefore, apt to be deficient in a diet which
varies according to the supply of things in season, and most urban diets are like
this.
So we could continue with further vitamins, and if desired
make another procession through the mineral salts, giving details of the astonishing
amount of experiments there have been and information gathered on each several part
of our food.
We learn what are the best proteins, what the best fats,
the best carbohydrates, the best sources of calcium, phosphorus, iron and other minerals,
of vitamin A, vitamin B, and so on, until we are or should be able to select our
diet, not by taste, as we do in a restaurant, but by knowledge. We shall in this
way do our best to fulfil the wish expressed by McCollum and Simmonds, namely, "the
discovery of the means of making nice adjustments in a qualitative way among all
the factors best adapted to promote optimum development."
The method of proceeding to the optimum development by fragmentation,
that is breaking up of food into its several elements and by experiment discovering
a great deal about each fragment and then putting them together in a better way,
is a method that could only spring out of certain conditions. It could only spring
from disease, not health. If our diet gave us health we should not question it. But
it does not do so. On the contrary, there has been so much disease in the last one
or two centuries that we began to question many things as possible causes of the
ill-health. Amongst them we questioned our diet. In doing so our scientists have
taken it to pieces as a machine is taken to pieces, and carefully examined each piece
as regards its suitability. They have fragmented it, and now the time of synthesis
approaches, the putting it together again. Here, however, they are far much less
certain than they were in fragmentation, which continues to possess them, with the
consequence that each fragment gets boosted as occasion arises; we are told to eat
more potatoes, eat more fruit, eat more home-grown meat, drink more milk, drink more
beer, take more salt or less salt, be careful to take milk for vitamin A, green vegetables
for vitamin B, fresh fruit for vitamin C--all well-studied fragments, but fragments
nevertheless.
All this knowledge would be quite useless to the Hunza people.
They have, for long, found a diet that is "adapted to promote optimum development."
They have formed it out of foods not widely different from European foods, for, as
McCarrison says in the Cantor Lectures: "Things nutritional are not, in essence,
so different in India and in England."
The chief difference is that they have a settled traditional
diet into which they are born and a settled traditional way of growing it and caring
for it. They have a whole system, a diet as a whole thing, whole not only in itself,
but in its history, its culture, its storage, and its preparation.
And with their whole diet they preserve the wholeness of
their health. This also we have failed to do. Our health or wholeness has fragmented
no less than our diet. A swarm of specialists have with the invention of science
settled on the fragments to study them. A great deal is found out about each several
disease; there is a huge, unmanageable accumulation of knowledge, and this and that
disease is checked or overcome. But our wholeness has not been restored to us. On
the contrary, it is fragmented into a great number of diseases and still more ailments.
We have lost wholeness, and we have got in its place its fragmentation with a multiplexity
of methods, officially blessed and otherwise, dealing with the fragments in their
severally.
Chapter VIII
THE CAUSATION OF DISEASE
SIR EDWARD MELLANBY, in his book, Nutrition and Disease,
quotes experiments he undertook with Dr. A. H. Green designed to prove that ill-fed
rats were very liable to infections.
The diet which he gave them was a laboratory synthetic diet
so prepared as to show what happens when one kind of food is defective. In this case
the defective fragment was vitamin A.
Although the diet was not a whole diet, such as certain groups
of men eat, nevertheless the results are of great interest in showing how this particular
faulty diet can be the primary cause of a large group of diseases. Mellanby states
that Green and he found areas of infections in almost all the ninety-two young rats
brought up on this diet.
These areas of infection due to the same cause were very
varied in character and situation. One rat would have something wrong with its ear,
another with its stomach, another with its bladder, and so on. So different were
the infective conditions found that one is not surprised that a practical man would
roughly give each a separate cause. Actually 44 per cent of the 92 rats had something
wrong with their urinary organs; 24 per cent with their ears and noses; 38 per cent
with their eyes; 21 per cent with their stomachs and intestines; and 9 per cent with
their lungs.
These abscesses and infections only occurred in the rats
if they were given defective vitamin A; if given proper food, they did not occur.
Mellanby's words are: "If a source of vitamin A, such as butter, cod liver oil
or egg yolks formed a part of the diet, infective lesions were never seen in the
rats, the addition of these substances to the deficient diets; unless the animals
were too severely infected, generally resulted in rapid improvement and ultimate
cure."
These experiments upon an important fragment of diet exhibit
correspondingly a part of the results of McCarrison's Coonoor rats when fed on the
poorer Bengali and Madrassi diets. The rats of Coonoor got all these infections and
a good deal more, as we have seen. But Mellanby's results show, in the same way as
McCarrison's more extensive experiments, that in the infections of rats fed with
deficient vitamin A the primary cause of the infections is shifted from the microbes
to food. As a primary cause of these diseases the position of the microbes was undermined.
Something deeper in causation was found.
The diseases of 2,243 Coonoor rats, and some other animals
used at Coonoor, must here be repeated. They got diseases of the respiratory system,
adenoids, pneumonia, bronchitis, pleurisy, pyothorax and infections of the nose;
infections of the ear; infections of the eye; dilated stomach, growths, ulcer and
cancer of the stomach, inflammation of the small and large gut; constipation and
diarrhoea; diseases of the urinary passage, such as Bright's disease, stone, abscesses,
inflammation of the bladder; inflammation of the womb and ovaries, death of the foetus,
premature birth, hemorrhage; diseases of the testicles; inflammation of the skin,
loss of hair, ulcers, abscesses, gangrene of the feet and tail; anemias of the blood;
enlarged lymphatic glands, cystic and suppurating glands; goitre and diseases of
the special glands; wasting, enlargement of and inflammation of the muscle, and inflammation
ofthe outer lining ofthe heart; inflammation and degeneration of the nervous tissues;
diseased teeth and bones; dropsy; scurvy; feeble growth, feeble appetite, weakness,
lassitude, and ill-temper.
"All these conditions," said McCarrison, in the
Cantor Lectures, "these states of ill-health, had a common causation: faulty
nutrition with or without infection."
One wonders whether, with the exception of plague, these
small animals could get any more diseases than those of this formidable list. I do
not know if anyone has discovered how many diseases rats can get, but they cannot
be expected to get all the diseases of the more complicated man. Nevertheless, one
cannot assert that poor food so breaches the barrier to disease of rats that every
disease which they get can swarm into the stronghold of their health, as invaders
swarmed into a medieval city when the walls had been breached, to destroy it in a
number of ways and scattered localities. But one can say that a great number of the
rat's diseases do so, or in other words that poor food in rats is the primary cause
of a great portion of disease in them.
In minimising this astounding, but in a sense obvious, conclusion,
one could say that what is true for rats is not necessarily true for man. That, as
a fact, is what Sir John Orr in Food, Health and Disease (1936) does say about
the rats of Coonoor: "Such experiments with rats, of course, do not carry the
same weight as observations of human beings."
This criticism is particularly interesting because it follows,
not only a brief precis of McCarrison's work, but also one of a valuable, similar
and later experiment of Orr's upon rats fed upon "the average diet eaten by
a working-class community in Scotland (with its) daily variation, thus mimicking
the food habits of human beings." There was, however, a small addition to the
quantities of milk, as the rats could not be bred without the larger allowance (Journal
of Hygiene, Vol. 35). The results were in the main similar to those of McCarrison.
Now, the noticeable thing about this criticism is that Orr
fragments the experiments of both McCarrison and himself. It separates the experiments
upon rats from the observations of human beings.
In actual fact McCarrison's experiments were preceded by
and due to observations upon human beings. The men were observed first and then the
rats. Orr's experiments were due to the example of McCarrison and observations of
the unsatisfactory state of the Scotch working-class. III-health was transferred
to rats by men's faulty food. Without the observations of men the experiments would
never have been undertaken.
The criticism shows the hold fragmentation has upon the mental
habits of scientists. Orr no sooner reaches McCarrison's truth by his own experiment
than he separates himself from it owing to this habit.
A further comment might be made, namely, that the food would
never have had such a full effect if the healthy rats had not been cleanly and airily
housed and enjoyed sheltered lives, even though these conditions were also those
of the sickly rats.
Air, or rather oxygen, it can rightly be maintained, is a
part of the food. When the human being is in the womb, oxygen is not separated in
any way from the other elements of food, but is brought with them by the mother's
blood. It remains a food after birth, but it has peculiar importance in assisting
at so many vital processes of movement and energy that it has constantly to be sprayed
into the blood by the special apparatus of the lungs.
Hence the airy cages of the rats of Coonoor were a healthy
asset, but that is all. They did not save the sickly rats. Further, a number of animals
do not live in the fresh air. They go out into it for their food, but they live in
burrows and holes. The rats do. So in effect do the Hunza in two winter months. But
they also go out into the best of air.
As to sanitary hygiene, that of the Hunza could not compare
with that of the rats of Coonoor.
The inescapable conclusion is that in a very large number
of diseases faulty food is the primary cause. The suspicion is that faulty food is
the primary cause of such an overwhelming mass of disease that it may prove to be
simply the primary cause of disease.
Up to the present day, it seems, the medical profession and
the public have had to be satisfied with a fragmentation of causation, that is to
say, a very great number of secondary causes and often enough no real causes at all,
but causes as fictitious as they are popular.
For the purposes of illustrating and emphasising the really
immeasurable importance of this contrast, if correct, let us take some few of these
illnesses and put their causes as given in medical text-books and as shown by the
rats of Coonoor in allignment.
Let us first take that dangerous disease, pneumonia. Pneumonia
is due to a microbe, the pneumococcus, which is found in masses in the lung in true
lobar pneumonia. The pneumococcus, says the text-book, is a resident of the human
mouth. It is found in 80 to 90 per cent of normal, healthy individuals. Something
more, then, than the mere presence of the pneumococcus must be the cause of pneumonia;
something that makes this domesticated microbe suddenly become dangerous. In other
words, the pneumococcus cannot be called the primal cause of pneumonia. Something
has to precede it--some weakness of the barrier.
The weakness of old age is given first of the orthodox causes
in the text-book. That beloved physician, the late Sir William Osler, whose famous
text-book is now under the competent care of Dr. Thomas McCrae, called pneumonia
rather charmingly "the friend of the aged"--saving them "the cold
gradations of decay."
Pneumonia is more common in cities than in the country and
in males than in females. Any weakening habit, such as that of over-drinking, becomes
a cause, and also makes the microbes more lethal. Yet robust men may be attacked.
Cold is a cause if it weakens, but not if a man finds it a tonic and reacts to it.
A previous attack makes a second attack more probable. Another illness, such as chronic
kidney or heart disease or one of the acute infectious fevers, gives opportunity
to the pneumococcus. So also pneumonia may follow a blow on the chest.
Now let us place these causes from text-books in juxtaposition
with that of the "small universe" of Coonoor.
CAUSES OF PNEUMONIA
TEXT-BOOKS
Weakness of old age.
Debilitating habits.
Exhaustion.
Chill.
Previous attack.
Some other illness, chronic or acute.
A blow on the chest.
Pneumococcus microbe.
COONOOR
Faulty food.
The text-books' causes are all more or less of one kind.
They may be called secondary weaknesses.
Old age, for instance, is a secondary weakness. Old age was
not permitted to the rats of Coonoor. They were allowed to live by the terms of the
experiments to the comparative age of forty or fifty human years, but not to seventy
or ninety. But the Hunza confront old age, not with illnesses, but with a vigour
that is more like that of youth. We have recorded Skrine's account of their Mir playing
polo with skill and activity when nearly seventy, and Schomberg writes of him, when
about seventy-five, as being consoled for the death of his Benjamin through a gun
accident by other "olive branches" who had happily appeared.
Of debilitating habits, the text-books put alcoholism in
the first place. The Hunza, about 1880, when Biddulph wrote his Tribes of the
Hindoo Koosh, were, he said, "great wine drinkers,"' and an affront
to more orthodox Moslem neighbours, who did not drink at all, and may well have exaggerated
the Hunza habit. But at no time were they drunkards. That would be impossible in
their precipitous country. McCarrison speaks of them as very moderate in their drinking.
Exhaustion was and is also unknown in Hunza in the meaning
it has in the text-books. For example, Schomberg's attendant's horse was stolen.
The owner "went after it and kept up the pursuit in drenching rain over mountains
for nearly two days with bare feet." There is no hesitation in these sort of
acts. Their physique is ready, their apprehension of exhaustion practically nil.
Chills, too, cannot play a part in Hunza life as extraordinary
and debilitating effects. They endure the winter and its gales at 8,000 feet. Schomberg
tells of a Hunza who used to make a hole in the ice on either side of a broad pond.
He dived in at one hole, swam under the ice, and came out at the other for enjoyment.
Previous attacks of diseases, the existence of chronic disease
of the heart or kidney, or acute infectious diseases, cannot play much part as causes
of other illnesses, such as pneumonia, where disease generally is rare. A blow on
the chest may also be put aside.
Summing up the text-books' causes, one may call them a number
of added weaknesses to an inferior barrier against disease. The barrier gives way
readily at this or that point. In other words, the barrier has degenerated.
By his skilled science man is actually able to get a partial
picture of what this barrier is. It is in fact an actual barrier. It can be seen
through the microscope. It can be seen if it looks healthy or degenerate. It can
be photographed, and the photograph of a healthy barrier has clear outlines and demarcations
and that of a degenerate barrier is blurry. This barrier is the fine skin which lines
the tubes and cells of the nose, windpipe and bronchial tubes, of the mouth, throat,
stomach and small and large gut. This fine interior skin is much the same as the
outer skin of the body, only it is thinner and softer. But both have an outer layer
of cells called epithelium, and it is the epithelium that can be particularly well
seen under the microscope. It is the epithelium that forms the visible barrier and
which shuts out microbes and other intruders. It does not by any means form the whole
barrier, but it constitutes a part of it, which can be seen as clear and definite
or blurred and indefinite, according to whether it is itself well or ill fed. The
contrast picture gives anyone with even a little knowledge of the microscope a good
idea of what can be termed the barrier, or more accurately, the first line of defence.
It is not fiction.
So we can understand how it is that faulty food can stand
alone under the heading Coonoor against the juxtaposed textbooks' list of the causes
of pneumonia. It can be placed there as primary, and thereby able to make all the
causes in the text-books possible; it can activate them. Without it they would be
inert.
Now let us look at the common infection of the middle ear.
Mellanby found this infection in a fifth of his faultily-fed rats. It was common
among the ill-fed rats of Coonoor, but absent in the well-fed. On the other hand,
a well-known text-book, such as Politzer's Diseases of the Ear, does not mention
faulty food as a cause, any more than faulty food was mentioned under pneumonia.
That the whole basis of modern life may be wrong and that that is why such large
text-books have to be written has not as yet appeared in the text-books themselves.
Putting the causes of acute infection of the middle ear into
juxtaposed columns, we have:--
TEXT-BOOKS
External atmospheric conditions.
Colds in the head.
Infectious diseases, such as measles, pneumonia and influenza.
Sea baths.
Nasal douches.
COONOOR
Faulty food.
There must, therefore, in faultily fed people be a fear of
cold night air, colds in the head; other people coughing and sneezing; schools where
children mingle with children; bathing in the sea, and keeping off the "flu"
by snuffing lotions or using nasal douches, as recommended by advertisers. Any of
these things may lead to passing of the barrier and the defences of the tissues of
the ear.
The eyes are even more commonly affected by faulty food than
the ears. The sickly rats of Coonoor got inflammations of the eyes, ulcers, and a
particular "dry" eye leading to blindness. All of these the well-fed rats
escaped.
The text-books all accept defective food as a cause of "dry"
eye or xerophthalmia, and recommend cod liver oil and butter, which will cure it
if not too far advanced. With this exception there is no direct reference to faulty
food as a cause of diseases of the eye. There is only the general statement that
these diseases are more common among the poor and debilitated.
A medico-surgical disease which is of particular interest
is peptic ulcer, or ulcer of the stomach or duodenum. It is of particular interest
because of its proven direct relation to faulty food. It happens to be very common
amongst the poorer classes of Southern Travancore--so common that both Lt.Col. Bradfield,
I.M.S., and Dr. Somervell asked McCarrison to put rats on the foods as prepared and
eaten by these people. He put a batch of rats on the foods as prepared and cooked
by the poorer folk of Southern Travancore for 675 days, and at the end of that time
peptic ulcer was found in over a quarter of them. This striking result has not yet
appeared in the text-books.
As is the way of new knowledge, it passes into currency by
a process of slow percolation. Until the time comes when it reaches the text-books
the causes of peptic ulcer, placed in juxtaposition, appear as follows:
CAUSES OF PEPTIC ULCER
TEXT-BOOKS
Occupation: anemic and dyspeptic servant girls, shoemakers,
surgeons.
Injury.
Associated diseases such as anaemia, heart disease, disease
of liver, appendix, gall bladder, teeth, tonsils.
Nervous strain.
Disturbances of the circulation. Large superficial burns.
Certain families are said to be more liable.
Increased acidity of the stomach.
Several of the above in combination.
COONOOR
Primarily faulty food.
Specifically such food as that of the poorer classes of Southern
Travancore.
The last disease I propose to take in these few illustrations
is tuberculosis. As regards this dreaded disease, McCarrison, in the Cantor Lectures,
turned from his own work to one of the most remarkable of human experiments, that
of the Papworth Settlement, so intimately associated with the name of Sir Pendrill
Varrier-Jones.
Papworth is a settlement for sufferers from tuberculosis,
mostly in the form of consumption of the lungs. The patients are, of course, ill
when they come to the settlement, but under a care, really quite like that given
to the rats of Coonoor, namely, adequate food supply, good housing and ventilation
and freedom from anxiety in the form of loss of employment, there are remarkable
and sustained recoveries.
All patients at Papworth have sputum pots and pocket flasks
into which they must spit. The infected sputum is at once made innocuous. Moreover,
public opinion in the village enforces their use by attaching shame, not to the users,
but to those who dare to be forgetful.
In Papworth there are many married couples. The children
of these couples live in the settlement. They are in frequent contact with tuberculosis
and are protected from the disease by the general use of the spitting pots and flasks
and by good food, or, in Varrier-Jones's own words: "the child's resistance
to disease is maintained by (a) adequate nutrition, and (b) the absence of mass dose
of infection."
Now comes the outstanding fact. The Papworth village has
been in existence twenty years, yet not one of the children of these married couples
has developed any form of tuberculosis. "Our experience proves," writes
Sir Pendrill in his report for 1936, "that no tuberculosis disease need be transmitted
so long as village settlement conditions of housing and employment are properly utilised.
Any question of 'heredity' is now generally discredited."
In face of this testimony to the power of resistance to tuberculosis
given by good food and housing, and with spitting pots to avoid mass infection, the
text-books put forward 'predisposition' as a widely-accepted medical tenet.
The argument for predisposition or diathesis runs as follows.
Nearly all dwellers in cities can be shown by careful tests to have had minor attacks
of tuberculosis. The reason why some persons get the disease and perhaps succumb,
whereas the majority are not aware that they have ever been attacked, is that some
people have a predisposition to the disease, or a diathesis. They are born, so to
speak, with an unhappy title to it, or, as the tenet is expressed by Professor Karl
Pearson: "the diathesis of pulmonary tuberculosis is certainly inherited, and
the intensity of the inheritance is sensibly the same as that of any normal physical
character yet investigated in man.
Infection probably plays a necessary part, but in the artisan
classes of the urban population of England it is doubtful if their members can escape
the risks of infection, except by the absence of diathesis--i.e. the inheritance
of what amounts to a counter-disposition."
Against Papworth's nutrition and avoidance of mass infection
is set the medical dogma or tenet of diathesis, or inherited predisposition.
This terrible Calvinistic doctrine, by which certain people,
and particularly artisans of the cities, are born predestined to get tuberculosis
has therefore been challenged by the good food, security, and the avoidance of mass
infection at Papworth.
The Papworth results suggest the following juxtaposition:
CAUSES OF TUBERCULOSIS
TEXT-BOOKS
Infection with tubercle bacilli. Inherited predisposition.
Living in dark, close alleys and tenement houses, excess
of alcohol and other weakening habits. Confinement in prisons, workhouses and workshops.
Catarrh of respiratory passages. Diabetes, kidney disease
and other chronic affections which lower resistance.
PAPWORTH
Inadequate nutrition.
Mass doses of infection.
If the list of the text-book is carefully examined, we see
how the causes there given are all, except that of diathesis, to be found contained
in the two Papworth causes. Infection with the tubercle bacilli in the one column
is duplicated by the mass infection of the other. Frequent inhalation of quantities
of the microbes gives greater opportunities to them to breach the barriers. All the
rest are the fragmentation of "inadequate nutrition."
Living in dark, close alleys and tenements means also faulty
food. The impure air of slums means one food, namely, oxygen, being defective, but
it means also that people who breathe it have not the money for foods that cannot,
like oxygen, be got for nothing. Alcohol in excess destroys the appetite. So do the
poisons of such diseases as diabetes and kidney disease. So does confinement in prisons,
workhouses and workshops. None of the people debilitated by such places or such diseases
eats heartily of good food. As to catarrh of the respiratory passages, that in itself
was produced by McCarrison and also by Mellanby by faulty food. The barrier breaks
down before the catarrhal microbes. A mass attack of tubercle bacilli may do the
rest.
If, then, one can put aside the predestination theory of
tuberculosis, there lies one thing behind all the other causes given, and that is
faulty food and, moreover, as we shall see, faulty food may account for the apparent
predestination.
That is sufficient discussion of particular diseases to show
the contrast of causes. To discuss more of them would be to enter the maelstrom where
diseases are regarded as separate entities, with their individual causes, each one
the source of an effervescence of research.
These Papworth children were quoted because they proved heretics
to the medical tenet of predestination in tuberculosis and by implication in more
than tuberculosis. They might also have been quoted as examples of the making of
sound general health, for they have good barriers to disease generally, as the annual
reports testify. But if their good health and freedom from tuberculosis breaks or
helps to break the tenet of predestination, that in itself will be a specific triumph
of almost immeasurable importance.
Fortunately there is another triumph in establishing the
general cause of many diseases and ill-healths in poor English children. With just
as unpromising human material as that of the Papworth children, the late Miss Margaret
MacMillan gained this success, which is described in her book The Nursery School
(1930).
The MacMillan Nursery School is in Deptford, in the southeast
district of London. The school consists of two hundred and sixty children of the
Deptford slums, adopted when two years old and kept until fifteen. These children
are cared for in a number of ways which reflect the imaginative sympathy of the mind
of the directress and the practical embodiments of which would take too long to describe.
Among the methods of care is, of course, well-considered food.
Next door to the school is "our own" Deptford Clinic
for sick children. School and clinic under the one authority present themselves as
human replicas of the rats of Coonoor.
Here is Miss MacMillan's description of the food of the school.
"Out all day in moving air, children are always hungry at meal-times, but no
food is given between meals. In summer they have fruit from the old mulberry-tree,
and we give small spoonfuls of orange juice. Fruit and fresh vegetables are needed
by everyone, but especially by growing children, and most of all by children of the
poorest classes in cities. Their bones are literally starved of mineral salts. They
suffer from starvation in the way of nitrogenous food and of all that nature supplies
in green food and fruits. Bread, bread, and always bread in surfeit is their portion.
Our fresh vegetables, meal, and milk work wonders."
The test of a diet is the wholeness of those who eat it.
This is the description of the children of seven, after four years spent in the school:
"They are all straight, well-grown children, and the average is a well-made
child, with clean skin, alert, sociable, eager for life and new experience. . . .
The abyss between him and the child of yesterday yawns deepest, perhaps, when we
compare the state rather than the achievements of the nurtured child with that of
the other. The nurtured seven-year-old is a stranger to clinics; he knows very little
about doctors. He sees the dentist, but has hardly ever, or perhaps never, needed
any dental treatment."
To "our clinic" come the sick children of Deptford.
They are just ordinary poor children who go to other schools and have other homes
than hers. They present the picture of the sickly rats of Coonoor; Miss MacMillan
draws the contrast, though not in juxtaposed columns.
"There, ranged on seats by the walls, sit scores of
sufferers. Blepharitis, impetigo, conjunctivitis, diseases of many kinds--these are
not seen in our school. They are seen in the clinic--thousands of cases, all preventable."
There follow further illnesses seen in the clinic--adenoids, tonsils, colds, coughs,
bronchitis, enlarged glands, gastric and intestinal troubles--in short, the list
which afflicted the sickly rats of Coonoor.
Now both Sir Pendrill Varrier-Jones and Miss MacMillan have
been exceptionally imaginative in seeing that all the conditions of life in
those under their care were made wholesome, things of the mind as well as those of
the body, and it is to this wholeness that they attribute the health of their wards.
They do not select food as the primary cause of the health. They regard the whole
as resulting in health.
This is so reasonable that I think no one reading their results
would care to diminish any one guard of healthy life which they have erected, such
as modern housing and hygiene.
Yet, apart from proofs and arguments already put forward
to maintain the vital primary claim of food, there is one very exquisite human experiment
made by Dr. G. C. M. M'Gonigle, Medical Offlcer of Health of Stockton-on-Tees, which
strengthens this claim in a manner that may be called one of accidental finality.
Stockton-on-Tees is an ancient market town which has grown
rapidly in the last three quarters of a century and now has a population of 67,772
(1931). Of this population in that year 40 per cent of the males between fourteen
and sixty-five were unemployed.
Stockton has slums, and the Town Council recently carried
out a vigorous policy of better housing. It was this that gave M'Gonigle an opportunity
to exercise his excellent powers of scientific observation.
A survey of housing needs was taken in 1919, and the largest
section of the town scheduled as an unhealthy area was dubbed "Number 1 area."
It was decided to demolish a part of Number 1 and transfer its inhabitants to a new
upto-date municipal estate, agreeably named Mount Pleasant. In 1927, 152 families,
comprising 710 individuals, were transferred to Mount Pleasant, leaving behind in
Number 1 area 289 families with a total of 1,298 individuals.
Here, then, were contrasting conditions of new and old, of
good housing and slum. Naturally everyone thought the transfer to Mount Pleasant
would be a betterment. But M'Gonigle watched.
Even he, however, watched at first according to the routine
of his official position. It was only when he found that something odd was happening
and the expected success was not coming off, that he concentrated a keen and skilled
observation upon the anomaly.
His attention was drawn to it by the fact that the health
of the inhabitants of Mount Pleasant, instead of improving or at least remaining
stationary, began to deteriorate, whereas that of those families and people left
behind in the slums did not.
M'Gonigle then began to test out what was happening statistically.
The standardized death-rate of the first five years following upon the transfer was
33 per 1,000; that of the unchanged slum 22 per thousand. The rate for the Mount
Pleasant estate of "33.55 per thousand, appears to be extraordinary, in view
of the fact that it represents an increase of 45 per cent over the mean standardised
rates for the same individuals in the previous quinquennium," is M'Gonigle's
comment. The increase was not due to any peculiarity of infant mortality, epidemic,
or other recognized cause. It was just there steadily throughout, and it represented
an increase in the various groups, from 0 to 10, between l0 and 65, and over 65.
There was even an increase of one-third in still birth. It was a characteristic of
the whole people of Mount Pleasant. It was "a real increase and beyond the probable
extent of fortuitous variation."
What was it due to? The better housing? It seems absurd that
something better should prove something worse. Yet, in spite of the best intentions,
this happens if primary things are forgotten. Man lives primarily by food, not by
housing, and the food of the Mount Pleasant people was what had deteriorated.
When living in the slums these people paid rents which averaged
4/8 a week per family. In 1998, on the Mount estate, the rent was 9/- a week, and
by 1932 it had risen to 9/3-1/2 per week, or double the original rent.
Consequently there was less money to spend on food.
M'Gonigle worked out the average amount spent on food per
individual for Mount Pleasant and for slum by carefully prepared and corrected statistics.
It is obvious, in view of the different rents paid, that Mt. Pleasant was worse off.
Particularly was this shown in the case of unemployed of both areas. The food per
"man" per week in Mount Pleasant cost 34.7 pence, that in the unchanged
slum, 45.6 pence.
M'Gonigle was, therefore, forced to the conclusion that the
deterioration of food led to the deterioration of health. "Such environmental
factors as housing, drainage, overcrowding or insanitary conditions" could obviously
be excluded. These secondary factors were not worse at Mount Pleasant. They were
a great deal better. That was the good fortune of this illuminating experiment. The
secondary things, namely, housing and sanitation, were made better first, and in
making them better money was withdrawn from the individual's primary need--food.
The experiment emerges as an indictment of putting the building
of new houses and of organizing physical drill on a par or as prior to food in a
policy of health. They are both good things, but they are not primary.
Muscular energy and activity follow right feeding naturally,
and physical training can follow upon the muscular energy. No one indeed disputes
this proposition--except in their acts and public policies. There is a general, rather
indefinite feeling that sound food is the primary cause of health, but when this
shapes itself out of the mist, there appear secondary not primary, forms--good housing,
hygiene, physical drill.
M'Gonigle showed that food took the primary place to good
housing and sanitation. Two experiments, now to be recorded, show how food takes
the primary place to exercise and physical drill. The first is reported by McCollum
and Simmonds.
Forty-two out of eighty-four negro children, in a kindly
but impoverished institution, were, as an experiment given a quart of milk daily
in addition to the customary institutional food.
Between these children and the children who were not given
milk there was not only a difference of growth and health, but of desire for exercise.
The non-milk children were apathetic and very tractable. The discipline of the institution
was strict, and these children were all obedient. Those in the milk-fed group, on
the other hand, soon caused annoyance to their teachers by their restlessness and
activity and were frequently guilty of infractions of the rules.
The second human experiment is similar. It can be found in.
the League of Nations Report on The Problem of Nutrition Volume I. "A
pint of milk daily added to what was considered a good diet in an institutional boarding
school" was followed by the usual increased growth and decreased illness, and
it was particularly noted "the children were more high-spirited and irrepressible."
The irrepressible activity which good food provides is willingly
poured out by the child or man into the many channels that are ready for it. Whether
it be as work or play, exercises or drill, sports or sheer necessity, the well-nourished
body is glad of the opportunity of activity. Without consciousness of weariness,
except if there be lack of variety, this readiness is carried on into age or even
near to the time of natural death. Amongst those of excellent physique, getting old
has quite a different meaning from what it has amongst those to whom age brings weariness.
So, when the negro and English children showed "restlessness
and activity, frequently leading to infractions of the rules," or become "more
high-spirited and irrepressible," one sees that more eager activity proceeds
from sounder food. One sees, further, that modern urban life, with its industrial
and commercial confinement, is, perhaps, only made tolerable by food that is not
what the milk was to these black and white boys. The words "apathetic and very
tractable" attached to the forty-two negro children who were not given milk
are significant. It was food that led to high spirits and infractions of the rules.
Climate is frequently upheld as a cause of disease or of
health. McCarrison attributes some of the efficiency of the Hunza to their climate:
"No doubt the climate is conducive to the health and vigour which its inhabitants
enjoy."
Anyone who has seen the perfect physique of a tiger in the
heat of the jungle and, maybe also, of a polar bear in the Arctic, and has watched
various races of men in different lands, most, I think, doubt the factor of climate
as of great importance in physique and health. Vigorous life is widespread in a world
of many climates; there are permanent rainless deserts due to lack of food, but none
due to bad climate only.
Finally, in the consideration of the causation of disease,
we came to heredity.
We have seen in this chapter that the faith of the medical
profession's tenet as to the heredity of tuberculosis has been upset by such human
experiments as that of Papworth, so that Varrier-Jones himself stated that the belief
was "now generally discredited."
The medical faith goes back at least as far as Hippocrates.
It therefore extends over a period of twenty-three centuries. At the modern end of
this enduring creed, Karl Pearson brings predestination in the case of tuberculosis
into line with the work done generally upon heredity by the words: "the diathesis
of pulmonary tuberculosis is certainly inherited, and the intensity of the inheritance
is sensibly the same as that of any normal physical character yet investigated in
man.?"
Hippocrates was "the Father of Medicine," and Karl
Pearson was up to his death, four years or so ago, the greatest British authority
on the exactitude of heredity. Can it then be that this faith which has so long been
endured and is so buttressed at each end is untrue? And if so, to what degree is
heredity as a cause of disease generally untrue?
If a faith has been held so long by a learned profession
and yet proves false, it may be that the reason is that it itself lies within the
ambit of a yet greater and more widespread human error.
Such an error may well be that of faulty food. It may be
that disease is, and for centuries has been, due to faulty food, and because food
has been unsuspected, so other faiths have been built up and maintained.
Among these other faiths may be the faith in the inheritance
of disease, though it is really only the weakening effect of faulty feeding that
is handed on by habit or poverty from generation to generation.
Professor Arthur Thomson, in his well-known book Heredity
(1926) answers the question he puts to himself: "Can a disease be transmitted?"
with this reply: "Perhaps it is best answered in the negative," and he
quotes from Professor Martuis: "A disease is not an entity nor a character,
but a process--an abnormal process injurious to the organism which is set
agoing by a causa externans and runs its course in some part of the body.
In the sense in which inherited is used in biology there are no inherited diseases."
An external cause is necessary.
Certain blemishes and peculiarities are undoubtedly inherited,
recurring again and again in one family. Examples of these are: having odd fingers
or toes; albinism with whitish hair and pink eyes; peculiar movements and mental
weakness coming on in middle life, restricted to a very few families and known as
Huntingdon's chorea; or the strange inability of the blood to clot, called hemophilia,
which is handed on by unaffected females to their sons.
Nevertheless, there is danger in one's parents. One may be
born with a general weakness, and therefore tendency to diseases, due to them.
The hereditary elements are lodged in the sperm cells of
the male and the egg cells of the female. Their clusters can be seen under the microscope.
There are twenty-four in each human sperm and egg cell. They are called chromosomes
and they unite together at the conception of a new human being. But (following the
analogy of other living things, for this has not been seen in the human) no sooner
does the unity occur than the tiny speck formed by it is separated into two. One
of the two bits becomes the reproductive cells of the new being, with their stock
of eternal hereditary elements, or genes as they are called, meaning birth-factors
or character-factors. The genes are unaffected by what is going to happen to their
tiny companion, which itself will grow into the individual body of the new being.
That being will grow up, unite, and have children, but what
he or she does in her lifetime has no effect upon the genes and the intrinsic characteristics
which the children inherit through them. That was decided at the first division of
the tiny speck.
The genes cannot be changed by the deeds of the individuals
who hand them on. They carry with them the imperishable hope of mankind, the indestructibility
of the eternal by the temporal. Nevertheless, the temporal can cause a general weakness
of the genes. It can poison them. It can cause them to be handed on in an enfeebled
condition. But it cannot alter their innate characters.
The reason why these genes or birth-factors or characterfactors
can be weakened is because they dwell in the centres or nucleus of the reproductive
cells in the testes or ovaries and are fed by the blood and Iymph of the body. Again
it is food. They have to be fed. If the food is good, they are strong; if faulty,
they are weakened.
Thomson gives some of the causes of the food becoming faulty--excessive
alcohol, tobacco, opium, various diseases, "may cause profound changes in the
nutritive stream." Still more, of course, can actual faulty feeding of the individual's
reproductive cells. So the genes, lodged in the nuclei of these cells, suffer from
the unhealthy juices in the cell and are weakened. A general weakness is thus handed
on from parent to child, due to the unhealthy ways of the parent. But the parent
does not doom the offspring to cancer, tuberculosis, or other particular disease
in this way, but only gives it a susceptibility to disease in general. In short,
owing to one's parents one can be sickly, but one cannot inherit any specific sickness.
It is this sickliness which results in illnesses which may
be caught from the parents or induced by like faulty habits, which are sometimes
wrongly regarded as the inheritance of disease or an inherited susceptibility to
a particular disease. It is not strictly heredity, for it is due to temporary conditions,
and if these temporary conditions are avoided or overcome the illnesses would not
occur. Nature endows life with a powerful eternal capacity to renew itself healthily,
given the right conditions. The genes know nothing of diseases.
The primary condition for the health of the future offspring
is the proper feeding of the parents so as to provide healthy genes.
I shall not stress further the argument that faulty food
is the most general primary cause of disease. But I do wish to stress that it is
within the ambit of faulty feeding that at present all the work on human nutrition
is being carried out.
In proportion as this is so this work is subjective and carried
out in a setting which is not that of health as wholeness. It is studying ourselves
and our peoples, amongst whom faulty feeding is innate, and its measures and acceptances
of facts are therefore faulty also. It is saturated with a solvent that is itself
impure.
To get to the truth it is necessary to be objective, namely,
to study health and physique in peoples who have not yet come within the ambit of
the faulty feeding of western civilization.
We have to study their food, but much more than their calories,
vitamins, proteins, salts, etc. We have to study above all their food's health and
its physique, and how these come about, whether its health and physique, both vegetable
and animal, completes the circle of health of which it, as the food, is one half
and the people who eat it are the other.
Chapter IX
THE HUNZA FOOD AND ITS CULTIVATION
PART I -- FOOD
THE foods of the Hunza, as stated in the first chapter, consist
of grains, wheat, barley, buckwheat, and small grains; leafy green vegetables, potatoes
(introduced half a century ago), other root vegetables, peas and beans; gram or chick
pea, and other pulses; fresh milk and buttermilk or lass); clarified butter and cheese;
fruit, chicfly apricots and mulberries, fresh and sun- dried; meat on rare occasions;
and sometimes wine made from grapes. Their children are breast-fed up to three years,
it being considered unjust to the living child for its lactation to be interrupted
by a maternal pregnancy.
The Hunza do not take tea, rice, sugar, or eggs. Chickens
in a confined area destroy crops and are not kept.
Looking through the diet, it will be seen that there is nothing
strange to the westerner in the Hunza foods. All of them, except perhaps one or two
of the smaller grain foods, are common to both peoples.
The difference lies in the way they are eaten and
the way they are cultivated. It is upon these differences that the better
health and physique of the Hunza in the major part depends.
Of cereal foods the Hunza prefer wheat, which they themselves
grow and which they also get by barter from the Nagiris. Sometimes chick pea is ground
up with the wheat, sometimes beans, barley, and peas are ground together. From the
wheat-flour they make their bread or chapattis.
This bread is the first of the Hunza foods that differs from
the western bread. The Hunza prefers wheat for his bread, so do the English. In this
they are alike. But in making it into bread they differ.
The difference is in the grinding. The Hunza grind so that
the greater part of the grain appears in the flour. Their resulting bread is wholemeal
bread. It is like the Kleiebrot upon which Professor Hindhede fed the Danes, but
without the extra bran. It has, of course, its own bran.
The westerners grind their flour to a fine white powder and
of this make their bread, which differs from the wholemeal bread in its appearance
and its lack of valuable parts of the grain.
McCarrison spoke of the Hunza diet as consisting of "the
unsophisticated foods of Nature"; foods not subjected to artificial processes
before they reach the consumer. A "sophist" is defined in the English
Encyclopaedia Dictionary as "a cunning and skilful man, a teacher of arts
and sciences for money." Sophistication for reasons of money does not occur
in Hunza.
The Hunza grow their own wheat, but some, as has been said,
they get by barter from the Nagiris. They grind it between stones and make their
unleavened chapattis from the fresh flour or they take the grain to the mills, where
it is made into flour and stored in large chests. They therefore do not eat Nature's
foods as they are. Only in the summer do they eat young green corn raw and direct.
Otherwise they manipulate it by grinding and cooking.
The westerners do the same. They manipulate and cook their
corn to make it into bread. But in their case the term "sophisticated"
can be attached to their bread. Art and money both enter into and modify its manufacture.
At one time the British flour was much like the Hunza flour.
Then came the introduction of the steam-driven machine, the industrial era and a
huge increase of population. More wheat was urgently needed.
In response to this demand the steel-faced plough was invented
in America about 1840. This plough solved the problem of grass. Previously grass
made a firm matting over the earth, and its removal by hand labour was infinitely
tedious. The plough cut up even the tough grass of the-prairie and turned the sod
upside down so that the exposed roots died.
The virgin soil was exposed, and having the stored soil's
food of rotted grass, it yielded excellent crops of wheat. The time came when this
store was partly exhausted, but for a long while the wheat-fields answered the hungry
call of the increasing manufacturing areas.
The Americans soon erected mills and exported the flour instead
of the grain. Now, the part of the grain from which the new plant starts to grow
or germ is oily. It is, as one might expect, the part of the grain which best assists
the sexual powers of the animal who eats it. It invigorates the whole animal through
the strengthening of the reproductive system.
But the wheat germ oil which has this potent effect has a
great disadvantage from the point of view of a world trade, such as the opening up
of the American prairies offered. If ground up with the flour, the flour was apt
to go sour with keeping and on long journeys.
So the germ was eliminated by the commercial milling process.
Covering the wheat grain is a skin--the bran. This protects
the grain, as all living skins protect. They all protect in a living way, not merely
in a mechanical way like a wall or covering. They can regrow themselves if injured,
and beneath and within them they store substances upon which they can call to strengthen
their efforts.
In the commercial process of milling this branny skin was
also removed. If it stayed behind, it made the flour less white. More of it made
the flour brown, and the resulting bread brown bread. Brown bread may be just white
flour and bran without the germ, or it may be wholemeal bread, or it may be wholemeal
bread with extra bran, like Hindhede's bread.
Whichever it is, it is tinged or coloured. But the new milling
turned out a white, or bolted flour, free of the germ and free of the protective
skin, and consisting only of the store, chiefly of starch, set aside in the grain
to feed the infant plant. Ground into powder, this made a nice-looking white flour
which did not go sour with storing, could be carried by trains and ships all over
the world and be made into tasty and clean-looking loaves wherever it finally arrived.
But it lacked the supreme vitality area of the grain, the
germ, and it lacked the protective skin.
The Hunza bread does not lack these two parts of the grain.
This alone might account for the Hunza's lack of nerves and vigour into old age,
for they are great bread eaters. It might also account in part for the sexual disabilities
that occur in modern cities and its accompaniments of treatment--commercial nostrums
and literature.
Whether this is so or not, the plain fact remains that a
part of the grain is thrown away for commercial and esthetic reasons; that is to
say, for sophisticated reasons from the point of view of food as primary.
There is certainly no instinct in people to guide them to
the better bread of the two; for instinct and appetite cannot be regarded as guides
in food matters to-day. They have them selves been so successfully put through the
mill of modern commercialism that they have been stripped of reliability. On this
point the League of Nations Committee's Report upon The Problem of Nutrition
declares: "It must be realised that instinct and appetite alone cannot be regarded
as reliable guides in the choice offood." And McCollum and Simmonds are more
emphatic on this very question of the general accept ance or preference of white
flour: "This (the polishing of rice) and th' artfcially established liking
for white flour and white cornmeal," they write in italics, "is
an illustration of the failure of the instinct of man to serve as a safe guide in
the selection of food. The aesthetic sense is appealed to in greatest measure
in this case by the lowest biologic values."
That original but insufficiently known thinker, Mr. Matthias
Alexander, teaches that the chief defect in modern man is that progress and civilization
have proceeded so rapidly that they have outstripped the instincts. The instincts
are very slow in their selective formation, and progress has pushed forward at such
a speed that it has been impossible for the instincts to keep pace with it. He himself
stresses this particularly in the bodily posture, which must impress any observer
of urban man. Writing, as I do, in a large public library, the postures of those
who are writing amply illustrate Alexander's teaching. They are round-shouldered
and ungainly. There is only one writer who I noted write with an arrow-straight back,
and on enquiry I found that he had been through Alexander's training.
In the matter of food, and particularly in the public favour
given to wholemeal bread, this outstripping ofthe instinct is most noticeable. It
is not because wholemeal bread is not tasty. It is a very pleasant bread to the taste,
and Hindhede's Kleiebrot is not only tasty but bakes excellently. Nevertheless, men's
instincts are not strong enough for its general adoption now, nor were they strong
enough to reject white bread at its initial introduction, although, in regard to
vitamin B~ alone the bestfed people of today get less of this vital element than
did the parish poor of the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.
As Alexander states, if man wishes to regain his pristine
health and bodily vigour he has to abandon any reliance on instinct and save himself
by knowledge or conscious control.
This can be done by the individual in the matter of bread,
for the wholemeal bread is procurable. But to change the habit of the western world
is a stupendous task, and one to which its governments have given little attention.
For wholemeal bread is a matter of freshness. The Hunza takes his bread fresh from
his own fields; we often from great distances, because, though less fresh and vital,
it is cheap.
One sees, then, in this respect the value of national selfsufficiency,
which has long been a political faith in France and is now one in Germany and has
had such an influence on other countries of the west. National self-sufficiency in
its principal foods is undoubtedly a necessity, if a nation is to attain to the health
that is possible. We who desire to base life on physiology must assert this as an
axiom.
It has been said that Britain could not produce enough food
for its own people. On the other hand, that great authority, Prince Kropotkin, calculated
that she could produce sufficient food for 100,000,000 people. Anyone who has compared
the meticulous care and agrarian economy of China and Japan with the empty grass
fields of Britain is forced to the conclusion that the effort to make Britain self-sufficient
in food is lacking. In spite of our physiological conviction of the need, the Returns
of the Ministry of Agriculture for the last year, ending June 1936, show that progress
is still physiological regress. In that year 33, 100 more workers were drawn from
the land, and this was not caused by mechanisation. No less than 284,900 acres went
out of cultivation, 69,000 of these being wheat acres. Potato acreage decreased 7,000
acres. Pigs have decreased by 11,000, breeding sows, cattle by 7,100 head, and chickens
to the figure of 884,000. The only increase, possibly in answer to the teachings
of the nutritionists, has been in green vegetables, 7000 acres, and carrots, 1,000
acres.
To sum up, the advantages of the Hunza bread are that it
is physiologically economical, for the whole grain is used. Nothing is lost. It is
also fresh. It comes from their own fields with the same freshness as fruit and vegetables
come from our gardens.
There is one other difference, and that is cultivation. The
Hunza, as we shall see in this chapter, have an admirable cultivation. They, moreover,
have an irrigation from the mountains, and this spreads a fine silt over the land
each year, which is comparable to the silt that is spread over the Egyptian corn-fields
by the Nile.
Opposed to this are the prairies of the new world, which
yield such magnificent crops in their virginal state. The nitrogen and other nourishment
are supplied by the decay of the grass until the steel plough roots up the grass
and destroys it. To them no silt comes annually. After some years of cropping, they
have, therefore, to be fed, and they are given chemical manures. There is reason
to believe, as will be seen later, that the quality of the grains has deteriorated
owing to this. In the recent Lloyd Roberts lecture McCarrison said that in India
the same grain, when grown on the same soil and watered in the same way, was of higher
nutritive value when the soil had been manured with natural farmyard manure than
when manured with artificial chemical manure. It is what one would expect. "Nature,"
as Dr. Lawrie entitles his iconclastic book, "hits back."
We all live on milk for a number of months in that period
of our lives when growth is most rapid. At that time its freshness is immediate.
It has even been shown that this has an unanalysable value, for young animal sucklings
do better from breast-feeding than when given their mothers' milk previously withdrawn
from the breast.
Milk is therefore a complete food. Adults separate from it
the fat as cream or butter, and the proteins as cheese, a protein that is said by
nutritionists to have a higher value than that of meat. It is certainly a substitute
for meat and largely taken by all agrarian peoples in its place.
Milk has to be fresh. It cannot be transported and stored
as flour can. After drawing it stales rapidly, and this constitutes a problem of
its supply to those who do not live in the country. In hot countries and seasons,
milk is more rapidly affected than in colder ones. Where the cows are liable to tuberculosis,
as is the case in western stalled cows, the milk may convey the disease. Methods
to preserve milk are therefore necessary both in the west and east.
In this matter of the preservation of milk it is difficult
to say whetner the Hunza have the advantage of the west. The Hunza follow the Oriental
custom of separating the fat and boiling it to form ghee or clarified butter. They
eat the ghee with their food and they use it for cooking. As the boiling forms an
intervener between the fresh butter and the consumer, their method cannot be said
to be as good as ours. It is in the hot weather forced upon them, for ghee keeps
better than butter.
The butter-milk or lassi that is left they drink. They also
drink whole milk. They sour milk and butter-milk, which keep better when soured.
They take plenty of these liquids with or without spices, though they do not get
the large quantities which the Sikhs drink. The souring of milk to preserve it is
thus pitted against our method of pasteurization. It is not easy to say which is
the better, but the evidence is in favour of the souring, if one accepts the statement
that wherever soured milk is largely used--in the Balkans, North Africa and wide
areas of Asia--"fine physique, good health and virility are usually seen"
(The Problem of Nutrition, Vol. I, League of Nations). The contribution to
the fine physical development may here be the milk, which these people take much
more freely and regularly than we do, and not to any particular virtue in its being
soured.
On the other hand, our process of making milk safe has not
won general approval.
Firstly, there is the unreliability of milk- pasteurizing
plants. Recently in the House of Commons the Minister of Health announced that it
was known that a high proportion of pasteurizing plants in London and elsewhere were
producing improperly pasteurized milk.
At a later day came a letter to The Times from the
retiring president of the National Council of Milk Recording Societies, Sir Arnold
Wilson, in which he said it had been proved that there was less tuberculosis in rural
areas where all milk is drunk raw than in cities where all milk is pasteurized. "Pasteurization,"
he added, "is supported by the whole weight of great commercial interests, who
cannot dispense with it, but all available evidence suggests that its value as a
safeguard against illness is small."
Moreover, there is evidence that pasteurization reduces certain
healthy qualities of milk. Possibly souring does so too. I have found no scientific
experiments on this point, and they would have to be very convincing to weigh against
the evidence of the Balkan, North African, Arab, Hunza, Sikh, and other drinkers
of it with their exceptional physique.
One quality of health which is injured or destroyed by heating,
especially if prolonged, is grouped by nutritionists under the vitamin C. So the
raising of the milk to 140°F., and keeping it there for half an hour of pasteurization
undoubtedly injures it. Wilson quotes the Cattle Diseases Committee as stating that
this loss will seriously affect the health of young children if uncorrected by the
addition of fruit juice. As lemons and oranges are more expensive than they were,
the danger has increased. Anyhow, a method which forces the need of compensating
a food is faulty, and part of our "faulty feeding" is the cause of disease.
The right way to avoid diseases conveyed by milk is sound human, animal, vegetable
and soil nutrition, as Wilson himself concludes.
A further defect of pasteurized milk has been revealed by
the work of A. L. Daniels and G. Stearns, published in the American Journal of
Biological Chemistry, Volume XXXVII (1919). They found by observation that children
who were put on milk that was quickly brought to the boiling point and cooled did
better in increase of health and weight than children put on the half-an-hour heated
pasteurized milk. The reason they gave is that pasteurization leads to the precipitation
of the necessary calcium phosphate salts which can be found clinging to the wall
of the container. Whether it was this and the greater loss of the qualities grouped
under vitamin C, or some as yet undiscovered cause does not matter. What does matter
is that pasteurization does delimit the health given by milk.
There is another curious fact. Medical officers and the Ministry
of Health are both aware that the milk-drinking of the children and people of Britain
is too little, and they have provided milk for school children. In most cases this
milk is pasteurized. It seems that quite a considerable proportion of children have
an aversion to this milk, and get nausea or vomiting, diarrhoea, headache and catarrh,
when they take it. The cause, it is said, is not pasteurization, but allergy or exaggerated
susceptibility in the majority of cases, and this allergy occurs in children who
come from families where there is a similar aversion to milk.
It would be straining the argument to say that this might
be instinct in revolt against pasteurized milk in families where instinct for a right
food is yet potent, for this point has not been investigated, but I feel sure no
such allergy could be found amongst the Hunza and Sikh children. Indian children
whom I know never refuse milk.
Both pasteurization and souring are interveners between the
fresh milk and the consumer. Of the two the evidence is in favour of souring.
We now pass on to leafy-green and root vegetables and pulses.
The Hunza, with the exception of their occasional meat, are lacto-vegetarian feeders
such as Hindhede and many other nutritionists, including McCarrison, put as the healthiest
diet of mankincl. As a general diet it may well be so, though the polar Eskimos,
with an entirely opposite diet, do not yield to the lacto-vegetarians in health and
physical endurance.
Vegetables therefore play a great part in Hunza feeding.
The vegetables they have are mostly similar to ours, but as potatoes, now largely
grown and eaten, were only introduced after the British expedition in 1892, they
take no part in their traditional well-being.
These vegetables they eat raw when they can, particularly
as fuel is scanty. They are fond of raw green corn, young leaves, carrots, turnips
and, as it were to exaggerate their veneration for freshness, they sprout their pulses
and eat them and their first green. This eating of sprouting pulse or gram is widespread
in Northern India, and undoubtedly within it there is a health which there is not
in the pulse itself.
Except for their use of sprouting gram, I do not know that
there is any striking difference here. Probably the Hunza eat raw vegetables more
freely than we do. Some of us hardly eat them at all, whereas that could not happen
among the Hunza.
They have little fuel and small fires. They cook their vegetables
chiefly by boiling in covered pots. But the process is more comparable to our way
of steaming and cooking in their own juice. Very little water is added. When this
has been used up more is added. The water in which the vegetables are cooked is drunk
either with the vegetables or later. The point is that it is part of their food.
It is not thrown away.
The taking of vegetable water is very obvious sense. It is
surprising that we should think that there is nothing soluble in vegetables which
is of value, and that they can be soaked and cooked in water without something passing
from them into the water. What do pass into the water are salts. Are these salts
valuable? The question can be answered by the blunt answer that they are there, and
when something is in a food that can be taken, it should be taken. Over and above
the fact that a food is a whole thing and should be taken as a whole, there is abundat
evidence from the scientists of the loss that occurs through the throwing away of
vegetable water of phosphorous, calcium, iron, iodine, sulphur etc. Quite a considerable
proportion of the pharmacopcea seems to have arisen owing to this waste. Quite a
considerable number of the doctor's prescriptions and patent medicines may be due
to the need to replace the salts of the food in those who suffer from the loss. The
similarity of the medicines and the lost salts is too close for one not to be profoundly
suspicious that the methods of cooking cause or contribute to the subsequent need
of the medicines.
It is not possible to say how this habit of throwing away
the water in which vegetables are cooked originated. On the surface it seems clear
that it is connected with the plate versus bowl. One cannot drink liquid from a plate.
One can only sop it up with bread, and that is wanting in efficiency and manners.
But when the food is served in a bowl or bowls, then the fluid part of the food is
not lost. I have no doubt that if British children were served their vegetables with
the water in which they were cooked in bowls instead of on plates there would be
an improvement in their health.
In the culture of their vegetables the Hunza's way differs
from that of the west. This vital question will occupy the second part of this chapter.
Here it must suffice to say that the Hunza are agrarian craftsmen, individual gardeners,
as opposed to rural labourers in large-scale commercial enterprise. So the Hunza
vegetables come, as we prefer vegetables to come, straight from the garden.
The Hunza do not wash their vegetables with our assiduity.
Like our fondness for white bread, a cleanly appearance appeals to us probably owing
to our innate dislike that any one dirty should handle our food, so we prefer our
vegetables very clean. We hate to see them soiled, which may be only due to good,
clean earth, but may have other origin. Staining also suggests unhealthiness of the
vegetable. Consequently the protective skin of our carrots and other vegetables is
apt to be rubbed off, with the result that they decay more rapidly with keeping and
their flavours deteriorate. Flavour must be a healthy quality, for it is the bait
of nature.
The Hunza eat the edible protective skins of their vegetables.
They do not soak and wash the vegetables to the degree that loses some of the salts
as we do, and of course they have no such instruments as those which give celery,
for instance, its fine white appearance by getting rid of its valuable outer layers.
Their sophistication is far less than ours in this matter too. They, of course, do
not eat vegetables dirty as our four-footed brethren are forced to do. They clean
to get rid of the soil, but they have no fetish of cleanliness induced by the fear
of dangerous dirt as we have.
Meat is a rare pleasure of the Hunza, as it is with the Sikh,
both of whom take it on average about every ten days. In Hunza it is scarcer than
previously. Some may not get it once a month. It is more frequently eaten in winter.
As with the Eskimo and others, the Hunza eat all that is edible of the carcase and
not the meat only.
The reason of its scarcity as a food is that the animals
are valued as dairy animals in a country where pasture and fodder are scarce. In
the winter, when there is still less cattle food, there is more reason for killing.
Animal food is well-liked and figures at feasts. Schomberg
describes its cooking on an occasion of ceremony. It is cut up and put into a covered
pot with a mass of pounded wheat. Vegetables may also be added and red pepper for
seasoning. Very little water is used, and when it is nearly finished more water and
vegetables with theirjuices are added. The vegetables stew in their own juice, the
meat and wheat in the water, a slow boiling and steaming like that of the Japanese
workers, who make the pot ready in the morning before they go to work, so that the
cooking is finished on their return. Schomberg says this slow cooking at ceremonial
feasts continues for twenty-four hours. Nothing of course is lost in the material
cooked, but such prolonged heat, even in covered pots, must destroy the factors of
food, without which scurvy results. The Hunza, however, get no scurvy, because this
stew is only a part of their diet and an unusual one. They have ample food to counteract
the undoubted faultiness of such prolonged cooking. They also eat sun-dried meat
raw, if it is fat and well-flavoured.
This heating, and particularly boiling, is the chief human
sophistication of food. Its danger is that it destroys the factors grouped round
vitamin C, and scurvy, either in its mild form of pallor and lassitude, or its severe
form of foul flesh and bleeding, results. Before the cause of scurvy was discovered
and better feeding prevented it, it was particularly fatal to soldiers on campaign
and men on the high seas. It has been also argued by Mr. A. M. Ludovici in his admirable
treatise, Man's Descent from the Gods, that the legend of Prometheus can be
explained in no other way but by the scorbutic evils which followed the introduction
of cooking. Prometheus brought fire to mankind and was punished by Zeus. For in the
place of the pristine health of the people came woes and sicknesses, only to be alleviated
later by Dionysus, the saviour, who taught men how to ferment grape juice, ivy juice,
honey, and to eat germinated grains. That is the bare outline of this notable explanation,
for it is known of course that these fermentations and sproutings, young life in
fact, are particularly effective against scurvy. The remedy of Dionysus, in short,
was a remedy that would be applied to-day.
Now, at feasts, at Biddulph's "public jollifications,"
the Hunza drink freely of their fresh home-made wine. So what they lose in the pot
they gain from the bottle.
In this the Hunza are followers of Dionysus, as indeed most
peasantries have been since the days of the Greek saviour, if permitted to follow
their own bent. The more orthodox teetotal Moslems have, however, long frowned on
the Hunza, who, nevertheless, still drink their wine. The Puritans of England, in
like manner, frowned upon the English peasants who made merry with the old English
ale and mead. Nowadays, the manufactured and advertised products of the brewing and
distilling industries have reduced almost to nullity the elderberry, damson, gooseberry,
dandelion, apple wine and other home-brews of our peasantry.
So, in the matter of balance to cooking by home-brews and
sprouting gram, the Hunza undoubtedly are better off than we. Their fermented buttermilk
and wines, like their corn from the field and their vegetables from the garden, are
direct and lively. They bear freshness with them. They are not staled by interloping.
They therefore fill their original purpose of being valuable
for their intrinsic qualities to their creators. Their value may well be that they
are a balance of one art against another art, of fermentation against cooking. By
fermentation a fresh, living vitality is brought in to balance a food which heat
has changed and robbed. That fermented drinks do have to balance something that is
lost in cooking has not been proved. It has scarcely been investigated, the question
has been so fogged by prejudice. But that fermentation has played a large part in
balancing some defect, that, in a cliche, it supplied a long-felt want, seems a very
reasonable explanation of the regard which human beings pay to it, even when their
food is particularly sound.
"The Hunza are great fruit eaters, especially of apricots
and mulberries. They use apricots and mulberries in both the fresh and dry state,
drying sufficient of their rich harvest of them for use throughout the autumn and
winter months" (McCarrison). They eat the fruit fresh in season, cracking the
stones and eating the kernels as well. Otherwise they take them, particularly sun-dried
apricots, and eat them as they are or rub them in water to form a thick liquid called
chamus. Dried mulberries they put into cakes as we do sultanas. They do not cook
their fruits. "Fruit is really the Hunza staple. It is eaten with bread, far
more so than vegetables, as it is more abundant" (Schomberg).
That this fruit is a healthy food is amply proved by the
Hunza health. But, then, the Hunza health proves the health of their other foods
as well, for it proves a whole. It proves that the foods or diet of the Hunza as
a whole result in a human wholeness of health that is supremely excellent. The fruit,
forming what Schomberg called the Hunza staple, is clearly therefore good. Everyone,
however, is agreed that fresh fruit is excellent. It has a pre- eminence amongst
foods which is shown by the words men attach to it--its freshness, its lusciousness,
its purity. It is the only food which the average citizen feels comes to him in the
intended way, to be accepted in its unchanged natural form. It alone of the foods
still preserves its pristine character and therefore is associated in his mind with
something of a fresh wholesomeness like the feel of the wind when a new morning breaks.
He feels, too, that there is such a direct relationship between the sun and fruit.
Fruit, more obviously than other foods, ripens and colours in the sun. Sunlight is
the carrier of the sun's quality. Through it that quality comes direct from the great
orb of our being. It stores itself in sun-bathed food, as in a minor way electricity
is stored in a battery. The eating of fruit releases the sun's quality in its most
direct and least interfered-with form.
The Hunza prepare their fruit for the autumn and winter months
by drying for a few days in the sun and storing it in baskets in a dry place. Does
it thereby gain directly over fruit that is dried and preserved by other processes
without exposure to the sun? There is no definite answer to this question. Our storing
of fruit is found to lessen its value, but whether there is less loss in sun-dried
apricots I have not succeeded in finding in scientific experiment. One can only arswer
with the old answer--that the Hunza prove their food.
What are the relative amounts of the different foods which
the Hunza eat at a meal? This, of course, is left to the individual Hunza. It is
a matter of personal appetite and choice.
But, states the report of the League of Nations on The
Problem of Nutrition, "it must be realised that instinct and appetite alone
cannot be regarded as reliable guides in the choice of food."
That is not so with the Hunza. Their instincts and appetites
cannot be looked upon as unreliable in relation to their foods. The Hunza still belong
to at period when, because sophistication was very limited, instinct was reliable.
Instinct, says Alexander, has been outstripped by the speed
of progress. The Hunza have in their mountain isolation kept largely free from that
progress This isolation, however, has been very different from that of the American
Indian before the coming European colonists or that of the polar Eskimos, for his
country is and has been one of the highways between India, Aghanistan, Russia, and
China. He has had contact with many peoples. But this has not changed his instinct
or culture.
The reason of this is of vital importance in the whole relation
of the Hunza to physique and health. The Hunza has not had to follow others. He has,
on his part, inherited from immense distances of time a form of agriculture which
has claims to be the most successful in the history of man. His agriculture has not
been inferior to others. Again, as opposed to American Indians and polar Eskimos,
it has been one that is famous far beyond the bounds of his small valley. The valley
of the River Hunza, in its way, has possessed and preserved something of the magic
of the valley of the River Eurotas.
PART II -- CULTIVATION
The cultivation of the Hunza is that of irrigated, staircase
terraces in mountain valleys, and it is probable that it is not only the greatest
but it is also the oldest form of agriculture. That is not proven, but it is a growing
conviction which Professor Haldane voices in The Inequality of Man (1932)
that "agriculture started in the mountains, and only later spread to the river
valleys."
The importance of the method of culture of food is primary,
radical, and fundamental in the matter of health. It exceeds all other aspects of
nutrition--if, that is, one separates any aspect of what is a whole. I make no apology,
therefore, for asking my readers to leave the Himalaya for a time and transfer themselves
to the next mightiest range of mountains, the Andes of Peru. It was in their valleys
that the irrigated, staircase farming reached its highest known development.
Twenty years ago the National Geographic Society of the United
States sent an expedition to Peru to study the relics of agricultural methods of
its ancient people. Mr. O. F. Cook, of the Bureau of Plant Industry of the U.S.A.
Department of Agriculture, was attached as botanist, and he published a report entitled
"Staircase Farms of the Ancients" in the Society's magazine of May, 1916.
"Agriculture is not a lost art," are his opening
words, "but must be reckoned as one of those which reached a remarkable development
in the remote past and afterward declined. The system of the ancient Peruvians enabled
them to support large populations in places where modern farmers would be helpless."
The system reached its culmination centuries before Columbus
discovered America, and before the Incas ruled in Peru. The people who created it
have left no written records and bear no historic name. They are, therefore, called
after the most striking feature of their work, the megalithic people, because they
built the walls of their terraced fields and aqueducts of great stones. These they
made to fit, the one with the other, with such accuracy that even to this day they
are like those of the Egyptian pyramids, a knife blade cannot be inserted between
them.
The megalithic people were great builders with stone. So,
following the same traditions, were the Incas. But the work under the Incas was not
such a careful fitting, and frequently the interspaces were filled in with clay.
The method of their making of a stairway of terraced fields
need not be described. It is much the same as that followed in other mountainous
parts, such as, for one, the present Gilgit Agency. The result is a small flat field.
Photographed in cross-section, the fields show so many feet of coarse stones and
clay below and so many of soil above. The soil was originally imported from beyond
the great mountains, for the steep mountain slopes and valleys did not provide it
in sufficient quantity. It was refreshed by the silt which the irrigating water brought
from the mountains. The soil is still in its place to this day, and to this day each
terrace shows the same inside structure whenever walls are removed.
The fields rise up the slopes of the mountains, tier upon
tier, for sometimes over fifty tiers. Some of the walls of the megalithic people
are so enormous and well fitted and so formidable in their show of power, that most
western travellers have believed them to be fortresses and described them as such,
which "only shows how far our own race is from appreciating the devotion of
the ancient people to their agricultural pursuits."
Similar fields were built in the valleys themselves. Valley
rivers were straightened in their courses and their destructive overflows controlled.
Such were the megalithic achievements in reclamation, besides
which, says Cook, in italics, "our undertakings sink into insignificance
on the face of what this vanished race accomplished. The narrow floors and steep
walls of rocky valleys that would appear utterly worthless and hopeless to our engineers
were transformed, literally made over, into fertile lands, and were the homes of
teeming populations in the prehistoric days." Even to this day thousands of
these acres are still fertile and the main support of the native population, who
accept them as a matter of course and make no enquiry as to their origin.
The staircase fields were irrigated. The aqueducts were often
of great length. Prescott states that "one that traversed the district of Condesuyu
measured between four and five hundred miles." Cook publishes a photograph of
an aqueduct as a thin dark line traversing a steep mountain wall many hundreds of
feet above the valley. It gives one an overwhelming impression of these colossal
works, a sudden sense of the stupendousness which is theirs. They were national works,
solely for the good of the people. Beside them, as Cook says, the far-famed hanging
gardens of Babylon--a pyramid with broad steps of troughs holding soil--was a toy;
built, perhaps, to please Nebuchadnezzar's Median queen as a reminder of the terraced
culture of her home.
Such works must, one thinks, have supported an agriculture
no less wonderful than themselves. This was the case. These Peruvian staircase gardens
were a centre, and probably the most important centre, where the agriculture of indigenous
American civilizations was created. In them were domesticated and from them were
dispersed over the rest of the Americas many vegetable foods.
"The following partial list of the Peruvian crop plants,"
writes Mr. Cook, "may give an idea of the extent and variety of domestications
that were accomplished in Peru: Achupalla (pineapple), anu (Tropacolum), apichu (sweet
potato), apincoya (Grandilla), arracacacha (Arracacia), chirimaya, chui (bean), coca
(Erythroxylum), cumara (sweet potato), inchis (peanut), oca (oxalic), pallar (Lima
bean), papa (potato), papaya poro (bottle gourd), purutu (frejol), quinoa (Chenopodium),
rocoto (Capsicum), rumu (Manihot), sauwinto (guava), sara (maize), tintin (Tacsonia),
ullucu (Ullucus), uncucha (Xanthosna), utar (cotton).
"A complete list of the plants that were cultivated
by the ancient Peruvians has yet to be made, but it will probably include between
seventy and eighty species. A large part are root crops, vegetables and fruits, but
some are seed crops, pot herbs, condiments, medicinal plants, dyes, and ornamentals.
Annual plants predominate in numbers and importance, but perennials, shrubs and trees
are also well represented."
Returning to the Gilgit Agency, one would expect similarities
between the conditions of the Andes and north-western Himalaya, both ranges of exceeding
loftiness, well sunned and without excessive rainfall. One would expect these similarities
to produce from intelligent peoples a similarity of agriculture.
The agriculture of the valleys of the Gilgit Agency are cultivated
by means of terraced fields and irrigation, as were the valleys of ancient Peru.
Further, the area of the Gilgit Agency and its neighbour,
the mountainous parts of Afghanistan, once formed an agricultural centre in the same
way as Peru. The resemblance of the two greatest mountain areas is very close indeed.
Hunza, which is the best product of the Gilgit Agency, itself
is but a microcosm of the Peruvian Empire. In both the people were eager for land,
they were in the modern phrase starved for land. Upon their own great efforts depended
their continuance as a people in the mountain valleys. So both became distinguished
at their best by the arduous perfection of their toil.
It is a most happy fortune that one of the visitors of Hunza
was a man who combined artistic sense,historical knowledge, love of mountains, and
a sensitive observation in a degree which would be rare in each several faculty.
The late Lord Conway explored and climbed both in the Andes and the Western Himalaya.
He was the first to place the redoubtable Hunza in their
rightful historic place. "The terraced fields," he wrote, in The Bolivian
Andes (1901)--Bolivia was a part of Ancient Peru-- "reaching aloft, awake
vivid reminiscences of the mountain scenery of the north-west frontier of India--as,
for instance, in Hunza, where the native population are living in a stage of civilization
that must bear no little likeness to that of the Peruvians under Inca government."
In Climbing and Exploration in the Karakorum Himalaya
(1894), seven years before his visit to the Andes, Conway gave a picture of Hunza
which he came to recognize as a microcosm of Ancient Peru. He was on his way to Baltit,
the capital of Hunza.
"The path that leads up to Baltit is bordered on either side by a wall of dry cyclopean masonry, the undressed component parts of which are very large and excellently fitted together. Where the slope steepens these walls are placed further apart, and short zigzags are built up between them--a monumental piece of simple engineering. We walked slowly, for there was much to look at, the cultivation being everywhere admirable and each step disclosing some new detail of beauty or interest. The whole of this side of the debris-filled floor of the valley between the cliffs and edge of the river's gorge is covered with terraced fields. They are terraced because they must be flat in order that the irrigating water may lie on them. The downward edge of each terrace must be supported by a strong stone wall, and every one of these is of cyclopean work, like those just described. The cultivated area of the oasis is some five square miles in extent. When it is remembered that the individual fields average as many as twenty to the acre, it will be seen what a stupendous mass of work was involved in the building of these walls and the collection of earth to fill them. The walls have every appearance of great antiquity, and alone suffice to prove the long existence in this remote valley of an organized and industrious community. . . .
"To build these fields was the smaller part of the difficulties that husbandmen had to face in Hunza. The fields also had to be irrigated. For this purpose there was but one perennial supply of water--the torrent from the Ultar glacier. The snout of that glacier, as has been stated, lies deep in a rockbound gorge, whose sides are for a space perpendicular cliffs. The torrent had to be tapped, and a canal of sufficient volume to irrigate so large an area had to be carried across the face of one of these precipices. The Alps contain no Wasserleitung which for volume and boldness of position can be compared to the Hunza canal. It is a wonderful work for such toolless people as the Hunzakats to have accomplished, and it must have been done many centuries ago and maintained ever since, for it is the life-blood of the valley."
The Peruvians were also comparatively toolless. "That
they should have accomplished these difficult works with such tools as they possessed
is truly wonderful," are Prescott's words.
Conway continues with a brief account of the social system
of the Hunza, which was at his time a miniature of that of the Incas of Peru. He
calls it semi-civilized. I do not think that is a permissible term. It is a fully
developed form of association of men for their own benefit, supported by tradition
and an accepted form of authority for its execution and adaptation to any unusual
conditions that occur. It is, in a word, a definite form of agricultural civilization.
"Still more difficult for a semi-civilized people,"
are Conway's words, "must have been the elaboration and enforcement of the laws
regulating the distribution of the water over the land. They were a necessity of
the situation, and the existence of the fields proves that such laws were evolved
and maintained . . . . A strong central power, wielded, of course, by a single hand,
was the inevitable result."
We are now able to see with greater clarity and wider observation
that the remarkable physique of this people is not causeless nor accidental, nor
a happy chance of nature, nor due to fresh mountain air, but that it has a long,
long history to support it. It has been famous in its part of the world for its efficiency
in the arts of agriculture in the past, it is famous to this day. Its biggest aqueduct,
the Berber, is, says Schomberg, "famous everywhere in Asia, . . . the mere existence
of these kuls (aqueducts) places the men of Hunza as a class apart." They are
exceptional agriculturists now, as they must have been in the past, and by that character
they have preserved century after century a quality of agriculture which has rendered
to them through food its return gift of perfect physique and health. But this they
have only maintained through a constant and meticulous devotion to its service.
The agriculture of the north-west frontier of India has been
shown to go back into the remotest recesses of human time. What is to be written
now cannot be pinned locally to Hunza. Hunza forms a part of the area which it describes.
But it is not unfair to think that Hunza, as much as any other part, and possibly
more, is a direct descendant from this remote past. Al} the evidence we have so far
produced makes this a reasonable inference.
The evidence is again strikingly like that which Cook produced
from Ancient Peru. It is to be found in a report upon Agricultural Afghanistan,
by Professor N. I. Vavilov and D. D. Bukunich, based on the data and materials of
the expedition they undertook for the Institute of Applied Botany. The report was
published in Leningrad in 1929. It is in Russian, but there is an English summary
of seventy-five pages. An English review of Vavilov's work may also be found in Professor
Haldane's essay, Prehistory in the Light of Genetics. I have followed the
English summary published at Leningrad.
Two out of four of the objects of this expedition was (1)
to study the different crops and varieties over the slopes of the Hindu-Kush; (2)
to study the technique and especially the irrigation of agriculture.
The authors visit "the most typical sedentary farming
for Afghanistan in the narrow high mountain valleys," and note to their surprise:
"Nevertheless, this isolated, poor mountain country holds striking riches of
varieties, displays an astonishing diversity of the most important crop plants of
the Old World.''
They give an exhaustive account of the various plants which
they found in this area, the many forms of wheat and other cereals, the striking
diversity of forms of the beans, peas, and lentils; many forms of salad plants with
transitional stages from the weeds to cultivated plants; "multifarious original
forms of carrots, turnips and radishes astound inglyrich in varieties"; spinach
and other green-leafed vegetables from wildness to cultivation, and finally, "analogical
facts revealed by the study of fruit crops: the pomegranate, walnut, apricot, elaeagnus,
zizyphus, show features of the primary form originating process."
They thus summarize their conclusions (with their own italics).
"The study of the separate crops discussed in the preceding chapters leads us
to general geographical conclusions which are in direct connection with the history
of agriculture and with the problem ofthe origin of cultivated plants.
"As the investigation of the varietal diversity of
cultivated plants has shown, Afghanistan with the adjacent countries, especially
north-western India, is one of the most important primary world agricultural centres,
where the diversity of a whole series of plants have originated. This is quite
objectively proved by the varietal diversity of a series of crop plants and by
the coincidence of the area of the varietal diversity of many of the most important
European crops."
Thus, as regards the diversity of the important bread-crops,
the club and soft wheats, "Afghanistan occupies the first place among all
countries of our planet," though "a detailed study of the adjacent
north-western India might shift the focus of the origin of forms" (for) "in
regard to climate, relief, and crops, the north-western corner of India, immediately
bordering on Afghanistan, forms one undivided whole with the latter. The remaining
part of the country sharply differs from Afghanistan in climate and soil."
In his studies of the origin of cultivated plants Professor
Vavilov found five principal world centres, one of them in south-western Asia. His
and his colleagues' detailed investigation of Afghanistan, especially the corner
abutting on the Gilgit Agency, has led to a more precise location of the separate
crops. "The comparative study of the cultivated plants of Punjab, Kashmir, and
the whole of India, have shown that the corner between the Hindu-Kush and the Himalaya
must be singled out from the whole of southwestern Asia.
"If we turn to the orography and climatalogical maps
of India we shall see that its north-western corner is closely connected with eastern
Afghanistan. From the southern territory of India it is separated by the desert Tar;
in the north it borders on the Himalaya. Here, in the upper course ofthe Indus, in
Punjab, is concentrated a great diversity of conditions, ranging from the limits
of agriculture to sub-tropical conditions; here we find an abundance of water, promoting
the development of irrigated cultivation."
The explanation of the exceptional concentration of the primary
sources of so many crops of European-Asiatic cultivated vegetation in the largest
geological fold of the world is very difficult, say the authors.
The modern Afghans, like the modern Peruvians, simply accept
what is left of these ancient gifts, and make no attempt to improve or understand
them. On the other hand, unlike Peru, Afghanistan offers no archaeological records
that throw any light upon this apparently astonishing enigma.
Nevertheless, fortunately, from out of the remote past there
loom up some suggestions of a great agricultural race like to the prehistoric Peruvians.
"In the last years, in this region (Punjab) connected with Afghanistan, archeological
records have been found. These records, synchronical to Mesopotamic culture, remove
the beginnings of culture to a much earlier epoch than depicted up to now by history
and archaeology.
"Henceforward this region, with its diversity of conditions,
its concentration of the genes of cultivated plants, its multifarious population,
must draw the attention of the investigator. This region evidently holds the keys
to many problems of human culture. . . . The concrete solution of this problem will
require huge collective work," but, alas, in the contrariness of the modern
nations, he sees little hope of this being made possible in the near present.
In this fold between the Hindu-Kush and the Himalaya lies
Hunza. It is, strangely enough, the very bull's-eye of this area. "The Wakhjir
pass," writes the Encyclopedia Britannica, under the heading "Hindu-Kush,"
"crossing the head of the Taghdumbash Pamir into the sources of the river Hunza,
almost marks the trijunction of the three great chains of mountains," the Hindu-Kush,
Pamir and Karakoram Himalaya.
Once again one feels the profundity that attaches to the
physique of the Hunza people. It is not accident. It is not that of the jungle. It
is that of an art, the agricultural art, comparable to the tireless climb by which
the Greek architecture finally reached its supreme beauty.
It is in the study of such people that the clue to health
is to be found. The final riddle of food and physique lies, not in the laboratories,
but in the fields and in such combined research as Professor Vavilov urges.
The final question in the Hunza food thus becomes: Is the
circle of health complete? Are the Hunza crops and vegetation as healthy and of as
perfect a physique as the Hunza themselves?
The health of their domesticated animals is coupled with
theirs. It must also be dependent on the health of the plant growths.
If one takes a modern text-book of plant diseases, such as
the well-known Manual of Plant Diseases (1935) of Professor Heald of the State
College of Washington, one is as appalled by their number as one is by the list of
human illnesses in a text-book of medicine. The one is the counterpart of the other.
Heald's list begins with deficiency diseases, nitrogen deficiency,
potash and calcium deficiency in tobacco, iron deficiency, magnesium hunger of soya
beans, matting of leaves of cereals, gray-speck of oats, yellow berry of wheat, phosphorus
deficiency of root crops, potash hunger of potatoes, and so on.
It then passes on to excess diseases. The first of these
is nitrogen excess. "Under natural conditions it is rarely present in sufficient
quantity to cause injury to our crops, but the amount may be increased to the danger-point
by certain farm- cropping practices or by the addition of excessive quantities of
nitrogen-containing fertilisers." Then there is the pallor or chlorosis of various
plants due to excess of chalk. "Some of these are pear, apple, quince, peach,
apricot, prune, plum, cherry, walnut, orange and }emon." There is acidosis and
alkalosis--too much acidity, too much alkali. The causes of acidity of the soil are
the addition of certain manures, the continued use of acid mineral fertilisers, the
interaction of natural residual components of the soil, the removal of lime by plant
growth and by leaching through heavy rainfall. Alkali in too great a concentration
occurs principally in semiarid lands. The deeper salts may be brought to the surface
by irrigation with the rise of capillary water.
There follow a number of diseases due to some defect in the
supply of water, of oxygen to the roots of plants, as in saturated soils, excessive
heat or cold, lack of light, the neighbourhood of industrial processes, and diseases
due to spraying with chemicals, fumigation, and other forms of over-treatment.
The third great group are the virus diseases. They are infectious
diseases due to ultra-microscopic viruses, in the same way as certain human diseases
are due to invisible but filtrable viruses.
There follows the great group of parasitic diseases due to
microbes, molds, mildews, chytrids, fungi, and finally nematode worms.
How did all these diseases come into being? Were they present
or as prevalent in the old agricultural civilizations to which Hunza belongs as they
are in our modern civilization? Or are they, too, due to faulty feeding of the plants?
I take it that what has happened to man has happened no less
to his domesticated plants. Science has effected a marvellous progress in variety
and fragmentation, but at the same time it has torn plants from their traditional
conditions upon which their health depends. Plants have been transferred from one
locality to another, from one country to another, but the factors of their stable
health have not been transferred. Sometimes they have luxuriated in the new wealth
of a virgin soil, and then, having wasted its substance, have deteriorated. Sometimes
they have met with conditions closely resembling their accustomed ones and have done
well. Sometimes all seemed well and then an expected defect showed itself in disease.
Sometimes the new conditions brought into being illnesses were excessively severe.
Throughout all their new experiences they have been accompanied by a growing army
of plant physicians to enable them to combat the diseases in their severality. There
is no doubt, I think, that modern man has made plant life in his own image.
I have been unable to find any history of plant diseases,
or study of fossils from this point of view, which could answer such a question,
for instance, as: Was the vegetable life of Ancient Peru free from the diseases now
current?
In human being one can find some comparison of diseases in
the past and now by the examinations, for instance, of the 30,000 bodies of Ancient
Egyptians and Nubians which the late Professor Elliot-Smith epitomises in Egyptian
Mummies (1924). The diseases which would be detected by these belated post-mortems
are not numerous, but such as could be detected were found to be very rare, with
the one exception of rheumatoid arthritis. Amongst the 30,000 there were three cases
of stone in the kidney, one of gallstone, no true case of rickets, syphilis or cancer.
There were ten cases of tuberculosis of the bones. Except in the luxury class, there
was no caries of the teeth. In the later luxury class caries was as common as it
now is in Europe.
But I know of no such study or possible study of plant diseases
in the past and now. Nor do I know of any study of plants as they are in a locality
where they have long been cultured under like conditions and of the same plants subjected
to conditions that are unfamiliar, in which, therefore, their instincts have been
outstripped.
Plant life is by its nature less mobile than man's. Movement
is only by winged or carried seed, and is limited. Therefore one would expect the
making of plant-life in man's image would have a far more serious effect on plants
than on man. Indeed, I sometimes marvel that plants have survived some of the great
disturbances to which they have been subjected. It argues much for the scientific
skill of man that he should have been able to bring about so many changes at all.
But, nevertheless, nature hits back, and she hits back with disease.
From these changes, except for the introduction of the potato
in about 1892, the plant-life of Hunza has been exempt.
The unchanged conditions include one of supreme importance,
that of food for the plant. This has continued century after century with the utmost
constancy.
The chief factors of plant-food have been two.
Firstly, there is the continuous slight renewal of the soil
by a sprinkling of the black glacier-ground sand, which is brought to the fields
by the aqueducts.
Secondly, there is the direct preparation by man of food
for the plants, given in the form of manure.
The Hunza, in their manuring, use everything that they can
return to the soil. They carefully collect the cattle manure and store it in the
byres. They collect all vegetable parts and pieces that will not serve as food to
either man or beast, including such fallen leaves as the cattle will not eat, and
mix them with the dung and urine in the byres. They use the human sewage after keeping
it for six months. They take silt from special recesses built in their irrigating
channels. They collect the ashes of their fires. All these they mix together and
make into a compost. They also spread alkaline earth from the hills on their vegetable
fields on days when the fields are watered.
The act of manuring is so important in its bearing upon agriculture
that the subject needs elaboration. As its classical representatives are the Chinese,
it will be their method we will now study. It is to be noted that the Hunza claim
to have received culture from Baltistan, the inhabitants of which are Tibetans.
The Chinese have pursued their method of manuring for a period
of time which makes modern progress appear an infant, a period which permits the
late Professor F. H. King to call his classic of description and understanding by
the really stupendous title of Farmers of Forty Centuries.
The principle of the method is that of the forest and prairie.
It is that everything that comes from the soil, whether it passes through animals
or not, is returned to the soil. Nothing is lost, all is preserved. Nothing foreign
is intruded, but day by day, year by year, century by century, is the local transference
of death to life again. At one time each piece of matter is dead, but its death is
but the awaiting of the time when it will be restored to the living by way of plant
food.
The Chinese manure or compost is made of everything that
can be collected which once got its life from the soil, directly or indirectly. They
are mixed together until they form a black friable substance which is readily spread
upon the fields. King describes a number of different processes he saw in different
parts of China. One he describes as being carried out in compost pits at the edge
of a canal, a process entailing "tremendous labour of body and amount of forethought."
Four months before his visit men had brought waste from the stables of Shanghai,
a distance of fifteen miles by water. This they had deposited upon the canal bank
between layers of thin mud dipped from the canal, corresponding to silt collected
in and taken from the recesses in the Hunza aqueducts, and left to ferment. The eight
men at King's visit had nearly filled the compost pit with this stable refuse and
canal silt. The pit was in a field in which clover, with its peculiar power of taking
nitrogen from the air, was in blossom. This was to be cut and piled to a height of
five to eight feet upon the compost in the pit, and also saturated layer by layer
with canal mud. It would then be allowed to ferment twenty to thirty days until the
juices set free had been absorbed by the winter compost beneath and until the time
that the adjacent land had been made ready for the coming crop. The compost would
then be distributed by the men over the field.
At another time he saw a compost pit within a village in
which had been placed all the manure and waste of the houses holds and streets, all
stubble and waste roughage of the fields, all ashes not to be applied directly, mixed
up with some soil. Sufficient water was added to keep the contents of the pit saturated
and to promote their fermentation. All fibres of organic material have to be broken
down, which may require working and re-working, with frequent additions of water
and stirring for aeration. Finally the mixture becomes a rich complete fertilizer.
It is then allowed to dry and is finely pulverised before it is spread upon the land.
Every foot of land, says King, is made to provide food, fuel
or fabric. "The wastes of the body, of fuel and fabric, are taken back to the
field; before doing so they are housed against waste from weather, intelligently
compounded and patiently worked at through one, three or even six months, in order
to bring them into the most efficient form to serve as manure for the soil or as
feed for the crop."
There is no human waste. "While the ultra-civilized
Western elaborates destructors for burning garbage at a financial loss and turns
sewage into the sea, the Chinese uses both for manure," reported Dr. Arthur
Stanley, Health Officer of Shanghai in 1899, and quoted by King. "He wastes
nothing while the sacred duty of agriculture is uppermost in his mind. And in reality
recent bacterial work has shown that fecal matter and house refuse" (prepared
as it usually is in China in hard-burned glazed terra-cotta urns and in Japan in
sheltered cement-lined p